Italian Duck Ragu
Meanwhile, soak the dried mushrooms in hot water for 30 minutes, then remove and chop. Strain the mushroom water to remove debris and reserve.
When the duck legs have about 15 minutes to go, heat a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat and add the duck fat or oil. When it melts, add the minced onion, celery and carrot and brown them well. Salt the veggies lightly as they cook. When the vegetables are getting brown, add the tomato paste and mix it in well. Cook the mixture until the tomato paste begins to turn dark red, about 5 minutes.
When the legs are done remove from the oven and reserve in a large bowl. If there is a lot of fat in the pan, drain it off (reserve for later use). Pour the mushroom water and the white wine into the roasting pan and use a wooden spoon to scrape up the browned bits. Pour this into the pan with the Dutch oven.
Mix the liquid from the roasting pan into the tomato paste-vegetable mixture and bring to a boil. Cook it down by half. Add the duck legs and any juices that have collected in the bowl to the Dutch oven. Cover with the duck broth and the tomato puree, add the bay leaves and oregano and mix well. Bring to a gentle simmer and let this cook for at least 90 minutes. It will look like duck stew at this point, which is good. You want everything to cook down slowly.
You’re ready when the meat wants to fall off the bones. Fish out all the legs and shred the meat off, then return it to the pot. If the "stew” has cooked down into a nice pasta sauce, you’re good to go. If it hasn’t, turn the heat up and boil it down until it’s as thick as you like.